A long desire to see rugged mountains and barren lands of Ladakh became true in the year 2014. I with my friend (Pradip Mahapatra)whom I also admire as a mountain lover planned to do a trek in little different way. Our plan was to do the trek on our own i.e without any guide or porter. Armed with Sunto GPS watch and thorough study of the route done in Google Earth we were confident enough to give it a try. Bags were packed and measured and again packed because we could not afford to carry something which was really not essential. A two man tent, ration to sustain two of us for ten days and few clothes, stove, utensils already made our rucksacks almost 15kgs. We are charged up enough to do the trek, but everything does not happen by the way you desire. When our shared vehicle dropped us at the starting point 5kms after Sarchu by a gushing stream my friend was already suffering from food poisoning. He was vomiting and the load does not helped us either. We started our trek and little after one and a half kilometer we decided to camp by a narrow stream. Next day he summed up all his strength and started but after few kilometers he gave up and it was quite natural. I could have not come this far in this condition. So we decided to turn back, and went to Leh. There, after getting some rest we went for Markha Valley and it was a beautiful trek. This tour boosted up our confidence that it can be done i.e without help of guide and again planning started for next year trek and this time also a new route but it was decided to take mules to carry the load.
2015 our team grew to five. Youngest member of the team aged 25 and oldest 61. Rupa De Roy who is only female member is like my didi (elder sister) than friend. Ratan Da(Da is used after name for someone who is elder) the eldest person can be referred as encyclopedia of Himalaya. Niladri the youngest one completed the basic course of mountaineering and will be joining soon for the advance course. The rest are two of us i.e Pradip Da and me. This time our plan is to follow Toze river upstream and cross a unnamed pass to Rupshu Valley and then again cross another pass beside Parang La and enter Spiti Valley.
This time we decided to go in August because by that time rainy season(which now brings quite heavy rainfall in this region) will subside and there will be less water in the streams. Pradip Da arranged for a mule man with his four mules through his friend based in Manali.
After reaching Manali we purchased some rations and packed it finally, next day we have to start early for Pang our starting point.
Pang(15,100ft) is almost 300kms from Manali and we reached there at 2pm after driving almost 6 hours. In the evening Santosh came with his four mules to join us. This four beast of burden will carry almost all our loads for the days to come.
Day 1. Just before Pang while coming from Manali a stream comes from right hand side which is Toze river. Our route was by the side of this river and as per our planning we have to walk around twelve kilometers today. We started at eight after having breakfast at the tent on the road side in which we stayed for the night. Initially we crossed a bridge and climbed a hump on our left. From here we could see the stream down below like glittering string. We have to go down to the stream to follow it because there is no way we can follow it from above.
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Looking for the route..
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Traversing through a scree like ground we came down by the side of the stream. Our guide is Sunto in which we had already fed the route and it is guiding us by the help of GPS. We had to open our shoes few times and walk through bone chilling water since there was no other way. After trekking almost five hours Sunto showed that we had only covered eight kilometers. At this point we came in front of a confluence, the main stream is coming from our left hand side and a narrow trickle of water is coming straight. We found a grass patch here with considerable open ground and decided to camp here as mules need grass for the day. Here we got little bit confused, which way to take next day? GPS was showing left path but we could already figure out that it was entering a gorge quite narrow.
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| Measuring the depth.. |
Calmness of the surrounding and evening light made our day. Though it became quite cold at night we put our lights of not earlier than 9.30pm and credit goes to Ratan Da for keeping us awake with his never ending stories of trekking.
Day 2. After having our breakfast and packing lunch we hit the path around 8.30am. After initial round of discussion it was decided to go by the main river. Within half an hour of walking we came in front of a narrow opening from which the river is gushing out. Either we have to cross the river diagonally or climb a scree zone with a gradient of almost 65 degree. We could have climbed it but on that loose ground mules could not go. So, Pradip Da with a safety rope went into the water waist deep to assess the situation. But after trying hard he gave up the hope of crossing it. Returned back to our starting point we crossed the stream and headed straight. We decided to go parallel to the Toze river. A high ridge separated us from the main stream. Walking by the narrow stream on boulder strewn path the valley started to open up in front of us. Different colours and shapes of mountain greeted us in to the unknown. Some shepherds surely visit this places for feeding their sheep herd but we could not find any thing which could make us to believe that trekkers came here previously. Covering almost ten kilometers we camped on the shoulder of the ridge about 50 meters above the stream. From here it looked feasible to cross the ridge and join the Toze river next day.
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| Looking back to our Day 2 camp. |
Day 3. It took us almost one and half hour to come to the top of the ridge as the gradient was really high. One by one we all reached the top huffing and puffing and now what we saw in front of us cannot be described by me. As far as we can see there was a open ground vast as if it can hold not less than hundred Boeing.
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| Ridge top. |
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| Part of the open ground |
We followed that white tip of the mountain as GPS shows Toze can be close to it. An open ground, so high, with little undulation was soothing to walk on. Everybody got separated and walked alone because I think at that time everybody dived into there own world of thought and we walked tirelessly. Cloudy day and gushing wind made it lot easier. At mid day we were on the edge of the ground and down below we could see a narrow stream, it was decided to go down by the stream as the weather was closing in. When we reached the stream, snowflakes started to fall, it could not stop us we climbed the bank other side and went on. From far we could see some formations which looked like some stupas. Lunch was decided to be taken there, but when we get near we were surprised to see natural rock formation more like a broken termite mound. We had our lunch here and little rest again rejuvenated us. Santosh our mule man could not be seen, we gave him the idea of the route and he was following his own instinct. From lunch point it took an hour to come to another gorge with a stream within. It looked like Toze. Standing here when we look to our left we could clearly see the deep gorge formation from where we turned on day 2 morning. And down below Santosh had set up his shelter for the night. Coming down was tricky as there was no proper path. Crossing the stream we reached our camp site, we could have reached here on second day if we could crossed the stream there. Our GPS was again showing that we were on the right track.
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| Our camp site across the stream. |
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| Evening light from our camp |
We camped here by the side of the river. Before pitching our tents we had to clear the ground of thorny bushes. As soon as the sun goes below horizon it becomes quite cold.
Day 4. We were now on the right path. After packing everything on the mules we three used to start last. Ratan Da and Rupa Di were first to start everyday and usually we used to catch them within half an hour.We followed the river upstream and here at some places the river bed was more than a kilometer wide. As there was no cover and sun blazing at its full bright sometimes it felt quite hot. Sometime it seemed that we were walking on a wide highway, high ridges on both sides wide river bed in-between six of us with four creatures looked like ants.
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| The river bed. |
Crossing the river uncountable times which we enjoyed, except the part of removing shoes and again putting them. The ridge left hand side of us had formed bizarre shapes of different sizes. This formations was made by wind blowing at high speed through this valley.
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| Rock formations. |
After almost four hours walk now the valley again narrows and here at some point we had to leave the river and enter a gully on our left which will take us to the pass which we intended to cross. I cannot give the exact timings of when we started or when we took lunch or when we turned from our way because throughout our trek we were so mesmerized by the vastness that looking at the watch or keeping the time in mind seemed unimportant. So.. we missed the gully from which we should have entered. When we felt from our intuition we had already covered almost two kilometers. Here the valley was considerably narrow and water was above knee deep. Finding a grass stretch on left bank we decided to set our camp. Santosh enthusiastically climbed the opposite ridge to see if he could get any idea of the route. Coming back he said that it can be done next day and it was decided that he will cut the ridge at a low point with his mule and we will enter the gully which we had missed two kilometers back. An evening drizzle made the night even colder.
Day 5. Today from the beginning we decided not to put on our shoes as we had to cross the stream more than once and most of the way was through the stream. Crossing bone chilling water in the morning was challenging. When we reached the entry point of the gully and found a high ground to sit on and put on our shoes our feet was numb. Taking our time here we entered the gully not more than ten feet wide. About half a kilometer later may be little less we were again on a wide open place. Here a ridge was standing right in middle of our path.
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| Which way to take?? |
Our GPS showed us to take the left one but we saw Santosh with his mules going over the ridge on our right and all our whistling and waving to attract him went in vein as wind was blowing so high that we could not hear each other standing few feet apart. Left path was taken as a depression far away could be the pass. At certain point we had to sit under a rock shelter to get some shade from heat. This place has no water and not a single blade of grass. We don't know how far we have to walk to get water so we drank little water at a time. Pradip Da went to see the path ahead and suddenly I spotted him quite far away waving at us and asking us to move toward him. We started and here the way gradually get steeper. A steep way was difficult to cover in that altitude. It was more like a open ground than a pass which we generally see in other parts of the mountains. Since we crossed from one valley to other we can call it a pass. The altitude of the place is 5112m (16770ft). We made a cairn by gathering some stones as there was none which proves that we may be the first on this place as a trekker.
Other side of the pass gradually goes down and we found a little stream with patches of green grasses on both sides of it trickling down.
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| Our camp after the pass.. |
It was a beautiful place to camp and we found that Santosh had already set up his night shelter there. Sunset was a delight to watch from here. Thankfully wind subsides everyday after getting dark. The temperature at night was below freezing point.We ate finger licking dinner of bhat (steamed rice), dal (lentils) and posto (poppy seeds cooked with potato and onion) and also a desert payesh (rice cooked in milk).
Day 6. Descent from the path was very gradual laden with small rocks. As usually Santosh was last to start and we gave him the idea of the route. Once he said that he will take a shortcut and relying on his knowledge we started on our trek. Everybody was happy to cross an unknown pass. After crossing about two kilometers the way bifurcates into two. According to our GPS the right hand one was our way. There was a straight way which in Google earth we have seen that leads to the Phirsephu gorge but it had a pass in between which is quite high and descending from it could be quite tough.
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| Top view sketch. |
So we took the right hand path and it lead us to a vast open field with little undulations. On far right we could see a range which divides this valley from Spiti Valley. Here we sighted first kiang (wild ass) in the open.
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| The vast landscape. |
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| Kiang |
Though they stay in groups but we saw some solitary animals, and sometimes a mother and her calf. I can remember that we had stopped very little and we were not walking slow still at noon we were only half way. Here we was discussing which way will Santosh take as we had seen him last at the camp site. In such an open ground it was easier to spot him but we could not see him anywhere. After lunch we again started and at about three we reached the point where we had to turn left. A stream was there and walking on wet grounds we saw some hoof marks which we thought of our mules. Here the valley was not very wide and we all had a feeling either we or Santosh had lost way. Our GPS was showing that we were not wrong. In this region night falls very late and it was decided to walk as long as we could find a suitable shelter. By that time we had lost our hope of finding Santosh. When evening was making way for night and not getting any shelter we decided to enter a gully in the ridge hoping that it would block the winds blowing through the valley. Everybody was carrying a small sack with camera, water bottle and windcheater in it except me as I was carrying a rucksack of Paradip Da who denied to put it on mule back as it is of Deuter and costly one, and I was more than happy to carry it. In that sack there was a jacket, wind cheater, few choclates, amla murabba one packet, three rain coats and a survival blanket, a plastic sheet and some things which were not of use at that moment. Everybody carried some drift wood and kiang dung for fire and made a temporary wall of rocks to guard the wind coming coming down. When night fall Pradip Da and I went again to river bed to give some light signal hoping it might catch attention of Santosh. Nobody ate anything after lunch except some raisins and chocolates taken in pocket at the last moment of leaving the camp. It was my dream to spend a night in open and I told this to others at our pass camp, and the chance came really. Putting all our clothes we had, we slept closely to keep warm covering the blanket over. I fall asleep as soon as I laid down on the ground but others remained awake of cold and at about midnight they all got up and decided to lit the fire. Now a smoker came to rescue as except me nobody smokes and had no match box. Lighting up fire they sat rest of the night beside it and shivered all night. I got a chance to cover myself with the blanket fully and slept through out the night.
Day 7. Next day we started before sunrise and reached Manechan the place from where Phirsephu gorge starts. Situation was always under our control and everybody hold their nerve. To tell the truth, may be hard to believe that I enjoyed the situation and sure everybody did. We nibbled a little of what we had and started again. Scorching sun made it difficult to walk. On a far high ground we noticed a rebo (ship shelter) and hurried there only to find it empty. Suddenly from here few mules come into sight and we were delighted that we could get some help. Two foreigners were coming with three local people and five or six mules. They were doing the Tso moriri- Pang trek. We asked for some dry foods from them and to our surprise they denied to help saying that they had very limited ration. During noon the heat became unbearable and we sat beside Phirsephu and took rest. We decided to walk after sunset as there was moon light and with the help of our head torch we could easily do that. Again started at around five and soon it got dark in narrow gorge. Rocks on both sides are of different colour and moonlight made it beautiful. At around nine we found a small rock shelter not suitable for five of us, still we decided to stay rest of the night there. It was used by some sheep herder may be. It got very cold at night and we all shivered while trying to sleep.
Day 8. Started before dawn we know that if we walk today all day long we could reach Korzok a village by the side of Tso Moriri. Within an hour we reached kiang dam a marshy land. By getting the first view of Tso moriri we all get charged and started walking enthusiastically as if Korzok nearby. But we walked and walked by the side of the lake.
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| Trek along Tso moriri |
Not a single living being we saw only a small bird. We slowed down considerably as scorching sun above made it difficult to walk and our tired body got more tired. Water of Tso-Moriri is undrinkable and whatever water we had fetched from Phirse phu got exhausted by noon. Still we had to go half way. Pradip Da decided to move fast to reach korzok and get some help.
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| Small bird. |
Our original trek plan was to stay at kiang dam and then follow the Parang La route to cross another pass beside Parang La. Without Santosh and his mules we had no other option but to head for korzok. When it was around three we got first sight of the view point by the lake. And Ratan Da kept telling that we had to cover only few kilometers. I know he told that only to keep our spirit. All day long colour of the lake kept changing but we were not in a position to enjoy that. When light was fading out we saw a man coming towards us with four mules and he stopped by us telling something in local language which we could not understand. At last what we understood from signs and very broken hindi that he was sent by Pradip Da and this mules are for us to ride on. He bring with him few packets of fruit juice and biscuits which we gulped in. But two mules among four denied to take us and on the way Ratan Da and Niladri decided to walk the distance. I with Rupa di asked them to take our mules but they were firm on their decision. So we rode the mule and reached korzok when there was no light in the horizon. Pradip Da again went with a jeep to pick them up and they joined us within an hour. Civilisation atlast and everybody from the shop and nearby homestay came to see us and listened to our experience. They were all surprised by the stamina of Rupa Di. That day we took a hefty dinner and slept under a thick blanket. We went back to Pang next day and proceeded towards Manali, asked every mule man we met on the road to inform Santosh if they see him.
We got the news of Santosh five days after we last saw him, he came back to Pang, since we did not met him the story of his remains unknown. We sent a small pickup van to get back our belongings.
Wish to meet Santosh some day and hear his story.
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Keep walking.
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This is only an attempt to narrate my experience and my limited knowledge of the language may be sometimes boring to read by the reader of this blog. Thank you.
