Madamaheshwar the one among five Kedars is one of the most enchanting among all Kedar's. I think there will be few to disagree with me.Once it was only popular among trekkers but now pilgrims from different states pour in as the trek distance is shortened considerably. Now one can go by bus or four wheel vehicle till Ransi village. Bridges are all reconstructed, trek route is well paved with stones and even pony is now available.Touch of civilisation can be felt everywhere.
I with my two friend this year (Oct 2014) decided to go beyond Madamaheshwar to Nandikund and descend in Kalpeshwar region. I last visited Madamaheshwar seven years back, and still I enjoyed the trek to Madamaheshwar as I did last time.
Since, this trek up to Madamaheshwar is very popular now and it is hard to find any trekker or mountain lover who had not came to this place. I hope reader's had already read my travelogue to Madamaheshwar. So, it will be better to start from Madamaheshwar.
On a cold morning we three with two porters and a guide started from Madamaheswar for our next camp at Kachni Dhar. The way winded upward towards the jungle which can be seen in the backside of the holy shrine. It was not a steep climb and, sun yet to rise so we felt the cold in the jungle. One can see the temple looking down from the way. Gradually the gradient of the path increased and soon we found our self stopping frequently. Way within the jungle was not long and after that the path was on the slope of lush fawn colour grass with huge boulders stuck as if it would fall with a slightest of touch. A huge rock had created a overhang and there is a temple bright flag of which declares its presence. It is the temple of Khetrapal the guardian of the place. We stopped for a while and again started to walk slowly. Soon we came to a hump like formation, here we saw some broken parts of an aircraft which crashed here long time back. This place is probably Nandabarari Khark, I forgot to ask guide but who cares. There is a small camping ground with lush green patch on it but we didn't noticed any water source. From here the path enters into a boulder zone and easily one can loose the path. Kachni Dhar is not far from here but it was quite a steep climb. A shark tooth like rocks marks the gateway of Kachni Dhar. From Kachni Dhar the distant Pandavsera region can be seen. After crossing the Dhar it is a steep descent but there is way diagonally crossing the grassy slope, and it is easier to walk diagonally, although the the way is very narrow. Camping ground is little bit more than half an hour walk from here. A stone laid place which works as temporary shelter for shepherds. Among the rocks we found some place for our tent and the stone layout served as our kitchen. On the south there is deep gorge through which Madamaheswar Ganga is flowing, it cannot be seen though. We came from west and our destination awaits roughly on the eastern side. On the northern side there is a wall of a mountain and we are on the shoulder of it. We got clear sky all through out the day, but as noon was giving way to the evening clouds covered the whole place. Since this place is approximately at a height of 14500ft and the weather was on the cooler side we got snowfall in the formation of pentagonal cubes and it continued for more than an hour. Clear sky made the night very cold and surely it went below freezing point.
We hit the trail at about 8 o'clock and today the trail gradually descended upto Pandavsera with lots of ups and downs in between. The most tricky part in this trail is descending beside Dwari Gad and crossing it. The gradient of descent is almost 80 degree. Since it was almost winter water in the stream was on the lesser side. We crossed it jumping over the rocks, in monsoon this stream gets quite violent. En-route we saw a cave within the jagged rocks known as Pandav Gufa.
Just before the meadow of Pandavsera we crossed a dried up river bed strewn with rocks and then climbed a small ridge and set foot on the meadow. It is a huge ground with Madamaheswar Ganga flowing down the right side and in front there is climb of Nandikund. We camped beside a huge rock with makeshift shelter beneath. Two or three people can sleep easily underneath the overhang of this rock.
Nandikund is our destination today, we rose early and started after little breakfast. Frozen ground crackled under our feet and those who trek surely likes this sound I think. At the end of the meadow we crossed a stream with ankle deep water at some place. I know the depth because my feet slipped on a var-glass and I fall in the water. After crossing the stream our climb started. Trail ran through the boulders and suddenly we stumbled on place which left us spellbound. Brahmakamal everywhere a rare sight it was. Air was filled with light misty scent. Looking backward Panpatia region can be seen from here. It took nearly three hours from Pandavsera to reach Nandikund. Really the view of the kund took away all our tiredness. The reflection of clear sky on the water made it light emerald colour. On its side Pandavsera range with snow cap made it more beautiful. Few weapons are there beside the lake which was said to be used by Pandavas.
Initially our plan was to camp beside the Kund but weather was not acting properly, so we decided to cross Ghiavinayak Pass and camp at Burma Bugyal.
I with my two friend this year (Oct 2014) decided to go beyond Madamaheshwar to Nandikund and descend in Kalpeshwar region. I last visited Madamaheshwar seven years back, and still I enjoyed the trek to Madamaheshwar as I did last time.
Since, this trek up to Madamaheshwar is very popular now and it is hard to find any trekker or mountain lover who had not came to this place. I hope reader's had already read my travelogue to Madamaheshwar. So, it will be better to start from Madamaheshwar.
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| Madamaheswar Valley as seen from above. |
We hit the trail at about 8 o'clock and today the trail gradually descended upto Pandavsera with lots of ups and downs in between. The most tricky part in this trail is descending beside Dwari Gad and crossing it. The gradient of descent is almost 80 degree. Since it was almost winter water in the stream was on the lesser side. We crossed it jumping over the rocks, in monsoon this stream gets quite violent. En-route we saw a cave within the jagged rocks known as Pandav Gufa.
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| Pandavsera |
Nandikund is our destination today, we rose early and started after little breakfast. Frozen ground crackled under our feet and those who trek surely likes this sound I think. At the end of the meadow we crossed a stream with ankle deep water at some place. I know the depth because my feet slipped on a var-glass and I fall in the water. After crossing the stream our climb started. Trail ran through the boulders and suddenly we stumbled on place which left us spellbound. Brahmakamal everywhere a rare sight it was. Air was filled with light misty scent. Looking backward Panpatia region can be seen from here. It took nearly three hours from Pandavsera to reach Nandikund. Really the view of the kund took away all our tiredness. The reflection of clear sky on the water made it light emerald colour. On its side Pandavsera range with snow cap made it more beautiful. Few weapons are there beside the lake which was said to be used by Pandavas.
Initially our plan was to camp beside the Kund but weather was not acting properly, so we decided to cross Ghiavinayak Pass and camp at Burma Bugyal.
From the left side of the Kund trail went up towards the pass. Since we are know above 15000 ft above sea level climbing up a little gradient is tough. After negotiating the boulder zone for about one and a half hour we came to the pass. And the view from the pass is breathtaking. Nandadevi, Trishul, and many more renowned peaks can be seen from here.
Getting down from the pass is really very tough and loads on our back made it tougher. After a tiresome day we reached Barma Bugyal at around 3 o'clock.
Bansinarayan mandir was our next camp. On the way we again had to cross a high ridge known as Khand Duwari. And we also got sighting of a group of Thar.
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| Himalayan Thar |
Green undulating meadows made the trek more enjoyable here. Spending lots of time en-route we enjoyed the beauty and reached beside the mandir when the sun was about to set. Sitting beside the mandir with a hot glass of tea we enjoyed the setting sun on Nandadevi. Our trek almost came to an end as next day we reached Devgram a beautiful village from where most people visits Kalpeswar.
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| BansiNarayan Mandir |
** I would request readers to notify if their are any mistake. I would be happy to give information's if needed.
